Český Krumlov through the Eyes of Karel Čapek

It is remarkable how much the town still resembles Čapek’s vivid description, which was published in his collection of essays and columns “Pictures from Home” (Obrázky z domova). Join him for a walk. Where would he stop to take in the view? Where would he go for coffee? Discover Krumlov through his eyes.
A 4.5 km loop through the town awaits you, easily accessible for visitors of all ages.

Karel Čapek: Along the Vltava – Český Krumlov

"I don’t know how many times the Vltava twists and turns here before passing through the town, but if you try to walk straight, you will cross it about five times, and each time you’ll be amazed by how golden-brown it is and how hurried it seems. I don’t know how many people live in Krumlov, but I do know that it has thirty-four taverns, three churches, one castle—but a huge one—two gates, and an enormous number of historical landmarks. In fact, the entire town is one large historical monument, somewhat reminiscent of Siena or Stirling.

Here, you’ll find old gables, oriel windows, dormers, arcades, archways, galleries, battlements, sgraffitos, frescoes, stairways leading up and down, balustrades, fountains, columns, stone markers, corners, wooden beams, grand halls, passages, historic pavements, winding streets, nativity scenes, towering roofs, a Gothic church, Minorite monks, and everywhere you turn, you see Rosenberg’s red roses. Wherever you look, there is nothing but charm, antiquity, and historical grandeur.
But in the old suburbs, you’ll find low houses where you can touch the rooftops with your hand, geraniums in the windows, and signs above the doors—here, old crafts are still alive, just as in the 15th century.

Above it all looms the castle—and especially its tower, one of the tower-est towers I’ve ever seen. I’d say that towers are a Czech specialty, because nowhere else have I seen such curious domes, bulbous onion tops, lanterns, attached turrets, galleries, and spires as we have. Every old Czech town has its own distinct tower, by which you can recognize it: this is Hradec, this is Brno, this is Budějovice, and this is Český Krumlov.

As for the castle, it is covered inside and out with painted frescoes, but the best part is its Baroque princely theater, where old stage decorations still hang—as if a ghostly Italian opera from the 18th century could suddenly appear. But it doesn’t, because it is forbidden to perform here for safety reasons. Then, there is Bellarie Summer Palace, with its amusing staircases, and countless other Baroque marvels—for three crowns, you get more than enough to see."

(This text was published in the collection “Pictures from Home” in 1953, fifteen years after Čapek’s death.)